I guess it has been a few weeks since an update but we are still going strong both indoors and out.
Two weeks ago we made the trip out to Wendell State Forest in Mass. for the Western Mass Climbers Festival. The area had a number of climbing crags as well as a 109 problem bouldering circuit. The "Bouldering Comp" was based on your progress through the circuit and the winner would be the one who completed the most problems. It was a comp unlike any I've been to and a unique area as well. Of the 109 problems, I'd say 80 were V0 or V1. The race was on. Throughout the day there were periods of speed climbing and others of working on harder problems. Ben and JP completed 60+ problems while Kyle and I slowed down to do some of the harder ones and did about 30 each (Not to say Ben and JP didn't send hard stuff too).
Needless to say, the winner of the comp was Maxim, an uber-strong climber from Boston Rock Gym. He sent all 109. Ben did place and won a pair of shoes.
This past weekend we began our indoor competitions with a trip up to Burlington's Petra Cliffs. As always, it was a fun comp and just about all of those involved with the Shiloh's Edge team (regularly or occasionally) placed well in the comp. It was a long day, 12 hours round trip. But worth it, absolutely.
Monday, the new climbing gym in Niskayuna opened up, J-PeaCity. Yes, JP and his dad built a nice wall in their garage and I lent him my holds until his come in and my new homewall goes up.
We spent a good 3 hours setting new routes on Monday night and because of the rain this weekend, will probably end up in there Saturday as well.
Fall temps are nice, but there is always the chance for a soaking rain as well.
Friday, October 9, 2009
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Southern Adk Rock Climbing Festival
On Saturday we made our way up to the SAdkRF for a little bouldering comp. When I say little, I mean LITTLE. Four competitors came up with me and there were probably no more than 6-8 others from various areas. As soon as we put our shoes on, it started raining. It rained and rained and rained some more.
Luke and I tried to beat the precip first thing in the morning and got on top of a tall boulder via a V1 arete and then the skies openned. We scrambled around up there for 5-10 minutes looking for a safe way down. After that we hide/climbed in an amazing cave for the next few hours. Ben and Luke worked an open project that was a crimpfest on a 45 degree wall. They made great progress, getting about 3/4 of the moves worked out and linked. The next move from their high point will probably be the crux of this V10/11 project. It is a jump to two decent slot holds off of a sidepull, a bad crimp and low/no feet. Really great work by Ben linking up to the high point.
When the rain subsided for about an hour, we walked the circuit and found some 'drier' V0s, V1s and V2s. We then returned to the cave to show some other folks the progress that has been made and finally worked a wet, sloppy V3 but to no avail.
At the end of the day, I ended up with the most points, winning the competition with a V2 high problem. Ben took second place.
Really it was a funny comp day, due to the rain. I can't imagine what would have gone down if it were dry. My previous disdain for Crane Mtn has been lifted though, due to a wet day that inspired me to come back and finish climbs when they are dry.
I'll be back for you Leviathan.
Luke and I tried to beat the precip first thing in the morning and got on top of a tall boulder via a V1 arete and then the skies openned. We scrambled around up there for 5-10 minutes looking for a safe way down. After that we hide/climbed in an amazing cave for the next few hours. Ben and Luke worked an open project that was a crimpfest on a 45 degree wall. They made great progress, getting about 3/4 of the moves worked out and linked. The next move from their high point will probably be the crux of this V10/11 project. It is a jump to two decent slot holds off of a sidepull, a bad crimp and low/no feet. Really great work by Ben linking up to the high point.
When the rain subsided for about an hour, we walked the circuit and found some 'drier' V0s, V1s and V2s. We then returned to the cave to show some other folks the progress that has been made and finally worked a wet, sloppy V3 but to no avail.
At the end of the day, I ended up with the most points, winning the competition with a V2 high problem. Ben took second place.
Really it was a funny comp day, due to the rain. I can't imagine what would have gone down if it were dry. My previous disdain for Crane Mtn has been lifted though, due to a wet day that inspired me to come back and finish climbs when they are dry.
I'll be back for you Leviathan.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Beautiful Days at GB and PKill
This weekend was absolutely incredible for climbing. On Friday afternoon, Luke, Evan and Pinto and I rolled out to Great Barrington after Greg's funeral. A somber day for sure, but in honor of Greg, we had to climb. It was a quick 3 hour workout, but some great progress was made on the Bump (V8) for both Evan and I. Pinto sent after a number of tries and gave us the foot beta for next time we try it fresh. We then hopped on the Platform V6, Pistol Grip V6/7 (sent by myself and Luke) and Pinto worked Fatwa V9.
On the Monday holiday, we rolled down to New Paltz for a full day at PKill. No one sent anything huge. Ben got the Classic One (V5) and I made tons of progress on two fun V7s Village Idiot (consistantly getting to the final pop for the top.) and Delicate Soul. The weather was perfect for climbing, cloudy and about 65 degrees. We all got pretty burnt out by about 3pm after working really hard on our projects.
On the Monday holiday, we rolled down to New Paltz for a full day at PKill. No one sent anything huge. Ben got the Classic One (V5) and I made tons of progress on two fun V7s Village Idiot (consistantly getting to the final pop for the top.) and Delicate Soul. The weather was perfect for climbing, cloudy and about 65 degrees. We all got pretty burnt out by about 3pm after working really hard on our projects.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Miss ya Greg
The NY climbing community has lost a great friend in the passing of Greg Beaudet last week. It has been a few years since he was living in the area, but his family and friends are still here and he would visit occasionally and, I'm sure, make the trip to the Gunks. If you are a boulderer at the Gunks, I'm guessing you'd recongnize him. In his senior year of high school, we spent quite a few days together down at the Gunks. He taught me how to boulder, and I introduced him to trad climbing.
Greg was ALWAYS a joy to be around. His energy was infectious; he was care-free, and he never had a bad attitude about anyone or anything. When he came to the competitions, everyone was excited. He was a high flyer, an encourager, and always climbed for himself, never to prove that he was better than anyone. His forearms were gigantic, dwarfed only by his heart and smile. His style was dynamic and powerful and although he was only about 5'6", I have NEVER seen him beaten in a dyno comp. I have set problems for every E-City competition and if we were concluding with a dyno showdown, we set knowing that only Greg could get the final one.
After he graduated high school, he went off to the Navy and became one of the best rescue swimmers they had. I'm sure he showed no fear jumping out of helicopters into the water. He had probably fallen from greater heights onto just 4 inches of foam and carpet. After entering the Navy, I didn't hear from him much. He was stationed in San Diego and Florida and spent time in the Persian Gulf too. We'd talk one or twice a year. His brother and father I would still see around, but not much was discussed besides "How's Greg doing? When's he coming home next?"
He had been a part of the Shiloh's Edge program; joining us on Saturday mornings for the indoor climbing league and on our trips out to Joshua Tree for spring break as well. I really wish I could keep up with all the kids who have ever been on a Shiloh's Edge trip, but unfortunately, life just doesn't afford that. I hadn't seen him in quite a while, but now that he's gone, I'm really kinda missin' him.
Greg was ALWAYS a joy to be around. His energy was infectious; he was care-free, and he never had a bad attitude about anyone or anything. When he came to the competitions, everyone was excited. He was a high flyer, an encourager, and always climbed for himself, never to prove that he was better than anyone. His forearms were gigantic, dwarfed only by his heart and smile. His style was dynamic and powerful and although he was only about 5'6", I have NEVER seen him beaten in a dyno comp. I have set problems for every E-City competition and if we were concluding with a dyno showdown, we set knowing that only Greg could get the final one.
After he graduated high school, he went off to the Navy and became one of the best rescue swimmers they had. I'm sure he showed no fear jumping out of helicopters into the water. He had probably fallen from greater heights onto just 4 inches of foam and carpet. After entering the Navy, I didn't hear from him much. He was stationed in San Diego and Florida and spent time in the Persian Gulf too. We'd talk one or twice a year. His brother and father I would still see around, but not much was discussed besides "How's Greg doing? When's he coming home next?"
He had been a part of the Shiloh's Edge program; joining us on Saturday mornings for the indoor climbing league and on our trips out to Joshua Tree for spring break as well. I really wish I could keep up with all the kids who have ever been on a Shiloh's Edge trip, but unfortunately, life just doesn't afford that. I hadn't seen him in quite a while, but now that he's gone, I'm really kinda missin' him.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Tons of work at McKenzie
The beatiful line of Flux CapacitorMy computer has been down for a few weeks...still out for repair, but tons of sending has gone down the first half of August - despite the HUMIDNESS.
McKenzie has been our destination of choice as we have been trying to get Ben as many goes on Flux Capacitor before he heads off to school. We went up on the 7th with Jess and Izzy for a great day. Tons of moderates went down, but no one got their projs that day. Ben did send Committed a V6 on the IF boulder. And Kyle and I both sent Providence, a committing V5.
On the 8th, JP and Kyle and I did some sport climbing at Shanty, a fun little cliff between North Creek and Wells. We did Shantytown 5.9, and a short .10a and .11a closeby. Really an enjoyable cliff. Have to return sometime.
On the 9th, Ben and I went back to McKenzie and he finally sent Flux Capacitor, a very proud V8. His first attempt of the day, he got to the jugs but couldn't top out. Then about an hour later some French Canadians were wondering how the problem went, so Ben jumped on to give them some beta. After 4-5 goes for them, he sent his summerlong proj. NICE WORK BEN.
On the 10th, we visited Crane Mtn Boulderwoods for the first time. And ummm, probably the last. It was super buggy, rock was wet and really chossy in spots. There are a few decent lines there I'm sure, but it's gonna take some convincing to get me back there. Maybe if it has been a super dry week in late October or something, I'll consider it. Ben and Kyle did a V6 called Vitamin I, but I didn't find anything inspiring enough to put my digits to the 4-days-on test.
On the 15th, Ben and JP and I met Kyle up at McKenzie for yet another day. Again, nothing huge went down. Ben worked Super Karate Chop for a while and we did a bunch of moderates and repeats.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Back rested and ready to send
After taking nearly two full weeks off to rest my tendons, we got back to ADK bouldering and kicked it off with some great sends.
Ben and I went out to 9 Corners last Monday and found the Froggy boulder. Froggy is a V4 with a really high start, so high that we weren't sure we were looking at the right boulder. After stepping on and giving it a few half hearted attempts, we decided that this was what we were looking for and put in the full effort necessary for the send. We then worked on the two V9s on that boulder, but couldn't make much progress without the correct beta.
On Saturday a decent sized crew rolled up to Snowy Mtn boulders, one of my favorite areas in NY. With it's sandstone like rock and pocketed overhangs, it is just an ideal and unique cluster for the Northeast. The weather on Friday was not conducive to climbing (it was an all day soaker), however, I remembered climbing at Snowy a few weeks earlier after an evening of rain and all was dry, so we gave it a go.
PERFECTO!!!
As we found out, Snowy is the ideal place for climbing when all else is still wet. With just 10-12 hours of dry weather, everything is doable. And the send train started rolling early.
Sam threw down the most classic V6 there after just a few goes; Kyle repeated it. I sent a really fun V5 Pumpkins Arete next to it.
We then moved on to IHOPP, one of my favorite climbs in the ADKs. I had worked it a ton last visit here and was able to send it first try this visit. So Fun. Sam also sent IHOPP and a repeat send for Kyle.
Then we moved up to the Cave boulder and played on the giant huecoed roof, sending a V2 and a V3 and an easier variation to the V6 The Sickness.
Next stop was the Never Been to Hueco boulder...Kyle and Sam both sent the V7 and I am much closer than before. Kyle then hit the lip on the V8 and feels like it is within his reach for the next visit.
And finally, we stopped at the Poisonwood boulder and sent a V5 called The Uninspired. Sam also worked the V6 Liar, Liar.
Many thanks to Buzzy for his beta spray, encouragement and spotting. It is always great to climb with someone who knows the problems and wants to see you get up them.
Ben and I went out to 9 Corners last Monday and found the Froggy boulder. Froggy is a V4 with a really high start, so high that we weren't sure we were looking at the right boulder. After stepping on and giving it a few half hearted attempts, we decided that this was what we were looking for and put in the full effort necessary for the send. We then worked on the two V9s on that boulder, but couldn't make much progress without the correct beta.
On Saturday a decent sized crew rolled up to Snowy Mtn boulders, one of my favorite areas in NY. With it's sandstone like rock and pocketed overhangs, it is just an ideal and unique cluster for the Northeast. The weather on Friday was not conducive to climbing (it was an all day soaker), however, I remembered climbing at Snowy a few weeks earlier after an evening of rain and all was dry, so we gave it a go.
PERFECTO!!!
As we found out, Snowy is the ideal place for climbing when all else is still wet. With just 10-12 hours of dry weather, everything is doable. And the send train started rolling early.
Sam threw down the most classic V6 there after just a few goes; Kyle repeated it. I sent a really fun V5 Pumpkins Arete next to it.
We then moved on to IHOPP, one of my favorite climbs in the ADKs. I had worked it a ton last visit here and was able to send it first try this visit. So Fun. Sam also sent IHOPP and a repeat send for Kyle.
Then we moved up to the Cave boulder and played on the giant huecoed roof, sending a V2 and a V3 and an easier variation to the V6 The Sickness.
Next stop was the Never Been to Hueco boulder...Kyle and Sam both sent the V7 and I am much closer than before. Kyle then hit the lip on the V8 and feels like it is within his reach for the next visit.
And finally, we stopped at the Poisonwood boulder and sent a V5 called The Uninspired. Sam also worked the V6 Liar, Liar.
Many thanks to Buzzy for his beta spray, encouragement and spotting. It is always great to climb with someone who knows the problems and wants to see you get up them.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
ADKs all summer
Last weekend, JP, Ben and I hit up 9 Corners on Friday for another go at 007. After some work, Ben got the send for a pretty stout V7. I am still taking it easy on my tendons so my new send of the day was Can You See My Eyeball (V3) and JP also got a new send for himself - Mannequin's Leg (V3).
On Saturday it was just Ben and me and we had McKenzie Pond Boulders to ourselves all day. It was still a bit wet when we arrived so we warmed up on some easier problems for a bit and then headed over to Flux Capacitor (Ben's V8 project). We did some drying of holds on that and Star Chores (my V8 proj) and then Ben took a crack at a send-go. AHHH!!! so close. He got to the jugs at the lip but couldn't find the critical crimp to finish the problem. Subsequent goes didn't go nearly as well. And the project stands for yet another day. We tried a V9 for a while, and then I worked Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few tries before sending it. I've got one more V5 to send at McKenzie.
Monday I took off and will take this weekend completely off as well. We have a ropes course group on Saturday and my fingures can use the rest.
Climbing resumes soon. Keep abreast of all the sends right here.
On Saturday it was just Ben and me and we had McKenzie Pond Boulders to ourselves all day. It was still a bit wet when we arrived so we warmed up on some easier problems for a bit and then headed over to Flux Capacitor (Ben's V8 project). We did some drying of holds on that and Star Chores (my V8 proj) and then Ben took a crack at a send-go. AHHH!!! so close. He got to the jugs at the lip but couldn't find the critical crimp to finish the problem. Subsequent goes didn't go nearly as well. And the project stands for yet another day. We tried a V9 for a while, and then I worked Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few tries before sending it. I've got one more V5 to send at McKenzie.
Monday I took off and will take this weekend completely off as well. We have a ropes course group on Saturday and my fingures can use the rest.
Climbing resumes soon. Keep abreast of all the sends right here.
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