Winter Day at GB

WOW it was COLD. Actually we started out the day less than psyched. Michael, Ben and I hit up the Probe boulder to warm up, but there was no warming done for several hours. Not long after we got there, along came Aaron and Tyler (a new guy from Wisc/VA). After discovering that we weren't getting much done on the V9 Probe, we moved over to the Speed boulder to get some work in on harder stuff ??
Ben made some progress on Something from Nothing V10, stalling on the hard move for him. Michael made the best goes to date on his V13 (what???) project Roses and Blue Jays. I had no work whatsoever for the V8 or V9 up there.
We decided to move on down the line to the larger concentration of boulders so I could give a go at the Bump V8, something I had been working a few days and was hoping to send before ice enveloped the SPAC boulder. After the 10 minutes of walking, the day suddenly got warmer and our spirits much higher. Ben got the repeat on Bump, sending with the prescribed method, as did Michael, using his own beta. And I also got it second go of the day. Next project please...
We stopped up at Snooze to give Aaron the support/ spotting he needed to send it in a day. Good Work! And then moved over to the slopy Twisted Stihl V8. Michael quickly sent do show us the beta and then Ben and I gave it some goes for about 30 minutes. We weren't able to get to the slopy lip yet, but it feels fun and within reach. Possibly the next proj for me?? After I send Boxcar though ;-)

Merry Christmas all.

Dark Horse Series #2

This past Saturday was looking CHIIIIILLLYYYY. So we decided to shuffle out to a the second installment of the MetroRock Dark Horse Series. This weekend was in their flagship Everett location, a beautiful and huge gym.
The problems seemed very reasonable and we started pulling down on some solid V6s. Ben, JP, Aaron, Luke and myself all scored some solid routes. And I believe that we were all happy with out sends for the day. Unfortunately, many of us tried too hard at the beginning and weren't able to finish five solid routes.
Ben got his five in, with a V7, two V6s and two V5s. I, on the otherhand, sent four V6s and could only score a V2 in the final minute of climbing to round out my scorecard.
Again we stayed for finals to watch some of the strongest climbers in the area go at it for cash money. In the girls division, Franny Metcalf cleaned up as usual, sending three of four routes. Our friend Melissa Gotkowski was the only other woman to complete a route and performed well for second place.
The guys division was pretty exciting, as Julian Bautista (he took third at ABS Nationals in 09) flew out from California for the event. Bautista sent #1, #3 and #4. Next was Vasya who sent all four routes but in five tries; he got the second one in two goes. Finally it came down to Rob D'Anastasio who needed to flash all four routes in order to take the prize. With the whole crowd cheering, Rob calmly brushed and inspected every hold of the final route. Hopped on and quickly flashed the route for the win.

The true win of the evening came for the Shiloh's Edge team though, as we took two of the three available raffle prizes. Me, a backpack and JP, a Thermarest. JP is the RAFFLE KING.

It seems that comps are over for a few months, so we're praying for sunny, warm winter Saturdays.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL and to all a hard SEND.

The Snowy Winter Climbing begins

We all knew it was coming sooner or later. Yes the snow has fallen over NY and blanketed many/all of our favorite climbing destinations. Chasing of the sun begins.

On Saturday we read the weather forecast first thing in the morning and decided that with the southerly storm, heading north would be the best idea. We met up with a few friends who showed us the lines on the Caroga Lake boulder. There were a few decent goes and some working of the hard problems before we broke for lunch and headed over to 9 Corners.

JP and I had our sights on Thorazine (V8), just about the most beautiful line at 9. After a few goes we were able to link up to the top move but before we could get the send, the snow began to fall and covered the tricky/slopey top out. As soon as the snow melts on it, it should go. (The final problem in the top video on the right is Ben on Thorazine this past summer)

Ben and Michael worked the unrepeated V11 on the same boulder. Overburdened begins with a V11 traverse into a V8 finish. Michael was able to link through all the V11 moves but was unable to go for the send as again the snow covered the top. Ben came up with some interesting and very powerful beta that may get him through those V11 moves (as he is much shorter than Michael).

All in all, we made a decent day of it, considering the amount of time we were hiding under the overhanging boulder to stay out of the snow.

After the large snowstorm we got on Wednesday, this weekend it is still up in the air whether we go to a comp or venture outdoors and shovel our way to the boulder.

Tis the SENDING season

Great late fall day at GB

Last Saturday we returned to Great Barrington for a beautiful chilly fall day. We began the day at the Probe Boulder for the first time in over a year. The warm-up is a fun V2 that went pretty quickly for all. JP and I then set our eyes on a V5 Kettle Traverse that goes into the warm-up while Ben and Kyle worked on the V9 Probe.
After a handful of tries, I was able to put together the traverse for the send. JP then continued working it and was able to traverse all the way to the final moves but slipped off and couldn't get back to that spot again. Next time for sure.
Kyle and Ben weren't able to connect the first moves but they feel good about future days on it.
Next we walked 10 minutes down to the SPAC boulder. Ben and I worked the V8 Bump, Kyle looked for a repeat on SPAC and JP began prepping for Snooze Button V5. Ben and I are both VERY close on to sending. JP waited patiently for all the pads to be moved up the hill under his project. He then gave it some really good goes but the Kettle Traverse had stolen his finger tips and his best goes at Snooze.
Finally we ventured up the hill some more to check out Two Stroke and Big Hairy White Thing. Both of those were still a bit wet from the rain Thursday night so we put some work in on an unknown but beautiful looking climb. After about a half dozen goes, I was able to pull through the tough opening sequences and cruise the easy top out for my second send of the day. We later found out that this fun line was a V5 called Wasabi.

All in all a great day and we are all very excited to return to these projects again, hopefully before the snow flies. JP put together a video of the day. Check it out at www.weekendbouldering.blogspot.com

We'll take a Thanksgiving break and then go out again on the 5th, either outdoors or to the CT Rockgym comp.

Happy T-Day

Dark Horse Comp. Series

Saturday's rain left us with no guilt at all about traveling to the Mass Coast for an indoor comp at Metro Rock Newburyport. The huge event featured a cash purse that drew some of the strongest climbers living in the Northeast. Some of the pros who showed up included Phil Schall, Ty Landmon and Brian Kim. There were probably close to 200 competitors ranging from 5 yrs old to 45 years old (99% under age 25).

Luke had a good showing, placing 3rd in Advanced. JP and I finished about middle of the pack in Advanced with JP beating me by 5 points. Jess did well also, finishing 2nd in Women's Intermediate. Ben came out but was sick a few days before the comp, so he didn't compete, just encouraged and chatted. Other friends who showed up to compete were Izzy, Michael and Sandra.

Even though it was a 17 hour day, the comp was fun and it was exciting to watch the Pro Finals. They are SO STRONG and left us all aspiring to climb hard as well.

Hopefully one of our many possible climbing destinations will stay dry enough to climb outdoors this Saturday.

Last day at Snowy before it snows?

Veteran's Day was a beautiful day up at Snowy Mtn. Boulders. The crew of Luke, JP, Izzy, Jess, Aaron and Adam rolled up there for some ADK sendage before the snow begins to fall.

The day goes to Luke as on his first visit to Snowy he sent nearly all of the classic problems. His tick list was: (Coit V6, SMAC V8, Insomnia V6, IHOPP V6, Never Been V7).
SMAC got the smackdown that day as Luke, Aaron, JP and I all sent the soft V8. Aaron also sent Never for his first V7.

You just couldn't have asked for a better day. Maybe we'll get another in before winter?

Oh. One last note...A very generous man named Matt from down south GAVE Jess a brand new pair of Solutions in her size. WHAT? Talk about a good day!!!

Beautiful Fall Day at the Gunks

What can I say? The Gunks is just amazing in the spring and fall, but the cool temps of the late fall are the absolute best. On Saturday we headed down there with a crew of 5 (Ben, Aaron, JP, Jess and myself) to dispense with a few long standing projects.
JP texted me in the morning: "Meaning of Life will go today." My simple reply was "Yo"
After a quick warm up at Black Boulder, which Aaron sent for the first time, we trucked it right to Meaning. After just a few burns and sussing out beta a little better, both JP and I put it to bed.
Next was The Following, another project of mine. Ben repeated it quickly and pointed out one key maneuver. I then sent it first go of the day. JP and Aaron gave it some good burns but no sendage.

Next stop was Merrakesh Express, a crimpy, traversing V6. Ben got the quick repeat. Aaron put it down after a bit of work. I worked it a while, got a few moves further than previous days but no send for me.

Moving on down the line, we hit up Boxcar Arete (V8). Ben showed me the beta with a stylish repeat. I made some great progress on it and am really psyched to get back another day when I have fresh skin. That thing gives you bruises on every tip. I've got all the moves, so hopefully it will go soon.

On the return trip down the Road, we stopped at The Buddha. Aaron got Andrews (V4) but none of use had much left for the signature V7.

But wait, one more stop. It's not quite dark yet. Jackson Pollock V8. Many good attempts at this short line. And it should definitely go next time, so long as we hit it up before burning ourselves out on other projects.

Great Gunks day. Can't wait for Winter on the Road.