Wednesday, January 28, 2009

So conflicted about the sun





We had a beautiful day of bouldering at the Gunks last Saturday. Everywhere else was cold and windy, but we were sheltered and got tons of sun all day. The sun is both good and bad for winter bouldering. It is nice, because you don't freeze your butt off, but it also melts the snow and sends water running down your favorite project.
One of my goals for the day was to send Black Boulder a V5 project of mine. In the morning we cleaned it off, but that sent water running all over the slopy holds. We decided to clean it totally and come back to it at the end of the day to see if the sun and breeze had dried it.
Next we went to The Bhudda, a V7 which Luke and Ben and I worked along with four other guys. Ben sent it (a repeat for him) and then water started running over a critical hold, so we had to move on.
Next we went to The Following and The Meaning of Life (V6 and V5 respectively). We spent a bunch of time trying to dry up The Following, but to no avail. Then we worked The Meaning for a while until we decided it would have to wait for another day (one when we could actually top out).
We tried Boxcar, which was wet on the critical holds. And then we went back to Black Boulder. It was dry, as we had hoped and both Luke and I sent it in just a few tries.

Enjoyable day. Even with the wetness. Can't wait til Spring.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Heading to Nationals



Luke and Ben have accepted invitations to compete in the ABS Nationals on Feb. 14-15. Luke in the Youth B age group (13-14), Ben in the Juniors (17-18). Our team will be flying out to Denver, CO for the long weekend. JP and I may compete in the Citizens' Comp as well.
We are very excited for this incredible opportunity and for a cool weekend together. Please remember to send cheers our way on Saturday the 14th.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

ABS Regionals






The Shiloh's Edge team had a great showing at regionals, placing all four of its climbers in the finals, including Coach Adam.
Ben didn't have much competition, being the only one in his age group, but he sent some very hard problems, including a V8 twice (he didn't like how he finished the first time)
It was a very long day as the qualifiers went from 9-1 (we finished at 12 and went out for lunch) and then the finals began at 4 and went until about 7pm.
Luke and Ben both were invited to Nationals next month. JP had a great showing in finals, making huge progress on a problem that no one else in his age group could finish. Unfortunately, he inadvertantly used the wrong foot chip and didn't get the points for a completed route.
I also was happy with my finals showing, nearly flashing (completing first try) the first problem. It was fun to be a part of this huge event and we are excited for nationals.

Jan 10, Indoor Comp at ECity


Our home gym hosted an ABS comp on Jan. 10. There was a pretty decent turnout. I think 46 in all. There were a few easier than expected routes, but for the most part, the comp went off without a hitch.
JP won his Intermediate catagory. Sending some solid V5s, good on ya.

Gunks bouldering, Jan. 3

Ben and JP and I hit up the Carriage Rd on a beautiful January day for some great bouldering. Ben had a particular V9 (called Yikes) in mind that he wanted to work on. He made great progress on it but the top was icy and dripping, so he couldn't even attempt to finish it that day.
JP sent a really nice V3 (Tweeky Crack) and I sent a few V4 problems that had been projects for years.
The middle part of the day was so sunny and nice that we had striped our jackets off. JP was even in short sleeves for a little while.

The snow has now taken over and we can't wait for the annual January thaw.