Thursday, July 23, 2009

ADKs all summer

Last weekend, JP, Ben and I hit up 9 Corners on Friday for another go at 007. After some work, Ben got the send for a pretty stout V7. I am still taking it easy on my tendons so my new send of the day was Can You See My Eyeball (V3) and JP also got a new send for himself - Mannequin's Leg (V3).

On Saturday it was just Ben and me and we had McKenzie Pond Boulders to ourselves all day. It was still a bit wet when we arrived so we warmed up on some easier problems for a bit and then headed over to Flux Capacitor (Ben's V8 project). We did some drying of holds on that and Star Chores (my V8 proj) and then Ben took a crack at a send-go. AHHH!!! so close. He got to the jugs at the lip but couldn't find the critical crimp to finish the problem. Subsequent goes didn't go nearly as well. And the project stands for yet another day. We tried a V9 for a while, and then I worked Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few tries before sending it. I've got one more V5 to send at McKenzie.

Monday I took off and will take this weekend completely off as well. We have a ropes course group on Saturday and my fingures can use the rest.

Climbing resumes soon. Keep abreast of all the sends right here.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Awesome ADK Weekend - 3 days on.




This weekend a crew of us rolled up to the Dacks for a bouldering tour of the greatest areas the Adirondacks has to offer.

We began at 9 Corners Lake on Friday afternoon. There were some great sends and good efforts all around. Ben sent his V8 project (Thorazine) on the second go and then did it again for the camera. Aaron (new to the Shiloh's Edge crew) sent Pop or Drop, a committing V4 after the rest of us dropped off a bunch. Izzy (also new to the crew) sent Meat and Potatoes after working it a number of times. Good sends guys. There was also a lot of work done on 007 (V7).

Saturday we headed up to McKenzie Pond. Izzy made good progress on Brock Lee Soares but just couldn't hold the crimp long enough to grab the first jug. Great effort on it though - watch the video. JP has had his eyes on Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few weeks and finally got back up to try again. Second go and it was over. Good send JP. I jumped on Thrust Fault sporting my new shoes and sent it first try of the day (I had tried a few times on previous occasions). Aaron sent Dickins (V4) pretty quickly and Izzy sent another V1. Ben and I both made little progress on our V8 projects. (Flux for Ben and Star Chores for me.) We decided to head out and save our skin for Sunday at Snowy.

Snowy was a send fest for many. Jump (V6?) went down by just about everyone but with stacked pads. Kyle was the only one to get it (also only one to try it) with one folded pad. This began the send train for him. He finished off Coit, IHOPP, and the V6 lip traverse on the Pancake boulder for 4 V6s in a day. Ben sent SMAC (V8) with not too much effort (maybe a half dozen goes). Izzy sent a V2 and a long V1 and made great progress on a V6 Coit. Aaron sent Pumpkin Arete (V5) in just a few tries. And I have the sequence down on IHOPP but keep greasing off every send go. I'll get it next time. Its a really fun problem that doesn't hurt the hands at all.

Taking Monday evening off. More to send next weekend.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Monday Eve GB session - Finally dry

JP nearly catching the Pistol Grip.
Ben with a proud send of a V9, Fatwa

After about half a dozen wet climbing days, we finally got a good evening of completely dry conditions, perfect for sending. And sending is what went down.

We began with some classic easier stuff. Some warm ups, the classic V3 andV4 and then a lesser known V2 and a first for us. It was a very fun problem just to the left of Scary Mantle-o. Kyle also sent a committing crimpy problem over by the warm ups that is of unknown rating. A good send, as the rest of us fell off a few times and never sent.

After warming up and getting some good videos of the send train, we went up for Ben's project - Fatwa V9. He worked it a few times to get used to the first dynamic move and then about 15 minutes in, he caught the edge, held the swing and sent his first V9. CONGRATS BEN. Good work.

JP and Kyle worked Pistol Grip a bit, but to no avail and then they worked a very committing Snooze Button V5, also to no avail, but good progress was made. Ben then went up to try to finish off his other V9 proj, Filter. He felt good on it but couldn't make the link-up. It'll go next time...

We are very excited for future DRY days to come. And hopefully the mosquitoes will subside as the summer progresses. THEY WERE BAD last night. I actually had to use bug spray for the first time this year.