Saturday, August 22, 2009

Tons of work at McKenzie

The beatiful line of Flux Capacitor

My computer has been down for a few weeks...still out for repair, but tons of sending has gone down the first half of August - despite the HUMIDNESS.


McKenzie has been our destination of choice as we have been trying to get Ben as many goes on Flux Capacitor before he heads off to school. We went up on the 7th with Jess and Izzy for a great day. Tons of moderates went down, but no one got their projs that day. Ben did send Committed a V6 on the IF boulder. And Kyle and I both sent Providence, a committing V5.


On the 8th, JP and Kyle and I did some sport climbing at Shanty, a fun little cliff between North Creek and Wells. We did Shantytown 5.9, and a short .10a and .11a closeby. Really an enjoyable cliff. Have to return sometime.


On the 9th, Ben and I went back to McKenzie and he finally sent Flux Capacitor, a very proud V8. His first attempt of the day, he got to the jugs but couldn't top out. Then about an hour later some French Canadians were wondering how the problem went, so Ben jumped on to give them some beta. After 4-5 goes for them, he sent his summerlong proj. NICE WORK BEN.


On the 10th, we visited Crane Mtn Boulderwoods for the first time. And ummm, probably the last. It was super buggy, rock was wet and really chossy in spots. There are a few decent lines there I'm sure, but it's gonna take some convincing to get me back there. Maybe if it has been a super dry week in late October or something, I'll consider it. Ben and Kyle did a V6 called Vitamin I, but I didn't find anything inspiring enough to put my digits to the 4-days-on test.


On the 15th, Ben and JP and I met Kyle up at McKenzie for yet another day. Again, nothing huge went down. Ben worked Super Karate Chop for a while and we did a bunch of moderates and repeats.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Back rested and ready to send

After taking nearly two full weeks off to rest my tendons, we got back to ADK bouldering and kicked it off with some great sends.

Ben and I went out to 9 Corners last Monday and found the Froggy boulder. Froggy is a V4 with a really high start, so high that we weren't sure we were looking at the right boulder. After stepping on and giving it a few half hearted attempts, we decided that this was what we were looking for and put in the full effort necessary for the send. We then worked on the two V9s on that boulder, but couldn't make much progress without the correct beta.

On Saturday a decent sized crew rolled up to Snowy Mtn boulders, one of my favorite areas in NY. With it's sandstone like rock and pocketed overhangs, it is just an ideal and unique cluster for the Northeast. The weather on Friday was not conducive to climbing (it was an all day soaker), however, I remembered climbing at Snowy a few weeks earlier after an evening of rain and all was dry, so we gave it a go.

PERFECTO!!!

As we found out, Snowy is the ideal place for climbing when all else is still wet. With just 10-12 hours of dry weather, everything is doable. And the send train started rolling early.
Sam threw down the most classic V6 there after just a few goes; Kyle repeated it. I sent a really fun V5 Pumpkins Arete next to it.
We then moved on to IHOPP, one of my favorite climbs in the ADKs. I had worked it a ton last visit here and was able to send it first try this visit. So Fun. Sam also sent IHOPP and a repeat send for Kyle.
Then we moved up to the Cave boulder and played on the giant huecoed roof, sending a V2 and a V3 and an easier variation to the V6 The Sickness.
Next stop was the Never Been to Hueco boulder...Kyle and Sam both sent the V7 and I am much closer than before. Kyle then hit the lip on the V8 and feels like it is within his reach for the next visit.
And finally, we stopped at the Poisonwood boulder and sent a V5 called The Uninspired. Sam also worked the V6 Liar, Liar.

Many thanks to Buzzy for his beta spray, encouragement and spotting. It is always great to climb with someone who knows the problems and wants to see you get up them.