The EDGE update

Deposits have been sent to both the building company and Rockwerx, the climbing surface company.

Clearance has been granted to start clearing trees and preparing the site.

We are on the move!

Projects don't come together overnight though. So be patient and pray for no more glitches.

When will it open? I can't say for sure, other than 'early 2011'

Weekend update by JP

Last week, we ventured up to The Stables in Saratoga for a quick Monday evening sesh. This is a long and interesting wall along the mountain bike trails up there. It has some decent lines, but many are super crimpy (so Ben loved them) and the topouts are the hardest part.
Although it is close to home, I'm not sure if it is worth many repeat visits.

Friday was a trip up north to MacKenzie with Aaron and JP and Saturday JP and I headed south to finish up projects at PKill. JP blogged about the weekend, so I'll just let him do the rest: www.weekendbouldering.blogspot.com

Happy Fourth. Careful with your digits.

Izzy nabs a Gnarnia FFA

JP and I had the pleasure of showing a few new folks the incredible lines at Gnarnia. Evan and Izzy joined us on a hot summer Friday for a great day of sending. With the "Patio" complete and the Gnarwal as safe as can be (inherent dangers excluded), I was really excited to give it my best shot (at least from the Patio start).
We began the hot, sunny day at the Wardrobe boulder and I was able to get the first ascent of Flesh Failures (V6). Izzy gave great goes on the namesake V3 arete but wasn't able to mantle the topout. Evan ripped a hole in his tip while showing us the possible crimp-line between F.F. and Wardrobe. It will go, but may be hard (V8/9?)
We then moved up to the Gnarwal and both Evan and I topped it out from the Patio (V4/5). It is a super fun problem with a commitingly high heelhook and reach move.
After chilling in the shade of the Patio for a bit, we moved over to one more boulder where Evan got psyched on a HARD slopy arete (for a day with better temps), JP and I worked a new easier arete, which I sent first and called Chilled Soup (V5).
Izzy recorded Gnarnia's first FFA (first female ascent-yes, its a real climbing term) as she styled her way up Stuff of Dreams (V4). Her ascent was more smoothly done than ANY I have ever seen on it previously.

June has proven to be VERY WARM, but we must still climb. Evening sessions seem to be the way to role.

Find shade.

~ The Edge

New Gym Update

Yesterday there was a Town of Halfmoon Planning Board meeting and public hearing. We were approved to go ahead with construction. So...trees will begin to come down, a steel building should be erected late summer, a climbing facility installed this fall, and if all goes well...opening an unbelievable new Rockwerx gym early to mid winter.

Pray for smooth sailin'

Summer Mank is upon us

"Is that the new term?" asked a fellow climber as we handed him an excuse for falling off the wall.
The hot summer days seem to be upon us and with it brings the humidity that we call mankiness. When things just won't seem to stay dry for five minutes, even with an entire brick of chalk on both you and the intended hold...that's Mank.

This past weekend we made trips to MacKenzie on Friday and Peter's Kill on Saturday.
Ben and I had our hopes set high for MacKenzie, he with his eyes on Cartwheel and Shut Up Machine; me looking at finally polishing off Star Chores. The bluebird sky and blazing hot sun however, did not set up optimal conditions for these tough sends. We gave our best efforts, hid under boulders quite a bit and ended up only sending one new problem, a v4 that felt more like a V6 due to it's strenuous top out.

On Saturday, JP joined us for a trip to Peter's Kill and again we had our eyes on some the prize v7s of PKill. The day was cooler and overcast, but the clouds held in the humidity and it felt a bit like a rain forest under that canopy. After a quick warm up, I gave Village Idiot a few goes, but the crux move was off a slimy, wet slot and was not to be had that day. Ben gave goes on Mad Lion, figured out a great sequence, but the tiny crimp was too mank for the full send. Next on to Delicate Soul, a project of mine for several years. Today was the day for me though. First Ben got the send (after scumming all the best beta for the long lip traverse.) Then I finally rolled through all the moves in smooth style. JP also had great work for it, but ran out of gas before the send. Ben then repeated Tiger Style, a problem which continues to baffle me.

Here's to hoping for a nice cloudy summer. OR some great evening sessions

ADK season (despite the bugs)

Since returning from the South, we have made a few trips up to the Dacks. We have been developing at Brant Lake just about every weekend and have established nearly a dozen quality lines. There is so much to be done up there, we are just getting started really.
Wardrobe Boulder so far - V2, V3, V6 and two projects cleaned.
Treeboob Boulder so far - V3, V4, V5 and two projects cleaned
White Chocolate Chip so far - V0, V1, V2, V3 and two projects cleaned
Gnarwhal - V4/5, V8/9 and three projects (only one cleaned thus far)

And there are still 6-8 other large boulders to get to work on.

We also made a trip to 9 Corners where Evan sent Thorazine and Bearded Arnie. I sent Bearded Arnie also and Power of Belief. Ben sussed out all the moves on Rip Curl and repeated a few lines.

The bugs have taken hold, but we're not going to let them stop this send train.

Choo Choo Baby. It's On!

HP Slopers - WHAT???

Yesterday we ventured down to Alabama to slap the crazy slopy holds of HP 40. For us northerns, it was a truly humbling experience. We entered the incredibly condensed boulderfield, getting turned around in every direction to try to find our intended routes. However, because of the uniqueness of the wall, we recognized the Millipede wall right away.
All of the guys threw themselves at the classic V3 called BumBoy and got thrown off continuously. Evan and Luke were able to send in a few goes because of their long reaches, but the rest of us needed some extra time. I actually walked away for a half hour or so and tried something else and then came back to send with the next go.
A local helped unlock the beta for the remainder of the sends there and we moved on.
Everyone spread out in small groups trying lines that interested them.
Several of the classic moderates were sent but nothing very difficult. Some of the sends were: Uniball, Sideline, Bumboy, several V2s, and an epic hour+ session of Mortal Combat at the end of the day that ended with Aaron's last-go send.
We all decided that you would need to spend quite a bit of time down there to really get used to the style and climb some hard stuff.

This morning we woke up to a thunderstorm and took the day off. But tomorrow we'll do one more session (our third) at Little Rock City before heading home.

Been a great week down here...despite the 80+ temps.