Gillette V6 attempts

Cool Fall Day at Triple Right

Columbus Day is an incredible day for outdoor climbing. The cool temps are incredible, the leaves are falling, the crowds are low.
Today we hit up Triple Right outside of New Paltz for an unbelievable day. We were all still a bit sore from Saturday's session, but we couldn't pass up this perfect/available day.
We began with warming up around the Neapolitan boulder. Many sent this namesake V3, I was able to stick the V5 dyno to the left and JP did a nice linkup of the two (left to right). We then moved on to Gillette a dyno V6 and Mach 3 the sit start V9. Ben and Michael worked the harder route for a bit while JP, Kyle and I worked the V6.
After many tries, I snagged the blind throw for my second dyno send of the day. If you know anything about my climbing style, dynos are not in that repetroire. I'm a trad climber by trade and I like things static and with both feet on. I was psyched to have stuck two harder dynos in a day.
From there we moved over to Dydactic Tactics. Michael made good progress on Lactic (the lower start) and got to the slopy lip. Ben worked up it quite a ways, but Kyle and I had trouble getting to the midway rest.
Our final jaunt was doing laps on Captain Bring Me Down V5. Some sent the whole thing, others started at various spots to work out moves. Some ran laps eliminating holds and others played on nearby problems. It was a great area to get a final burn in, as the routes are overhanging with decent holds to get a good last pump going.

I can't wait for more fall climbing. Heres to hoping the next few weekends are dry.

Nice day at GB

After a rainy night and some real skepticizm on my part, we headed out to GB Saturday morning. The morning was pretty wet and finding things to work was a bit of a challenge. However, as the day progressed, things dried out nicely and lots of good climbing went down.

We began by working the sit start to our "Shade" problem. Many made great progress, but the send is still elusive. We then went uphill to try Snooze Button, but with the top-out still wet, we just worked out the lower moves for a while. Ben and Michael worked on a V10 by Fatwa and also a very fun looking project to the right of Snooze Button.

As Ben, Michael and Sandra moved over to some harder stuff, JP and I went back to his Bromance V5 to get some video of the sendage. JP quickly resent (video in previous post), but I could not make the big move. JP still has the only ascent we know of.

We then caught up with the others at the Speed Boulder. Ben was working Something From Nothing V11. JP and I did the V4 heel hook problem up the hill and a few variations thereof. We also sent a really cool arete behind that which I flashed and we estimated to be about V2 with some really fun moves.

We finished the day off with some of the best Burritos I've had at Azteca down in town.

Great Day. Good call JP.

Heading to Triple for the Monday holiday. Should be great temps.

JP's Great Barrington V5 - Bromance

JP is still the only one to have sent this problem (as far as we know. We cleaned it a few months ago). This is the flash resend. I worked it after him, but to no avail. I can't keep my foot from instinctively stepping back on the boulder to the side.

Way to go JP. Climbin' Strong.

Competitions have begun

I guess it has been a few weeks since an update but we are still going strong both indoors and out.
Two weeks ago we made the trip out to Wendell State Forest in Mass. for the Western Mass Climbers Festival. The area had a number of climbing crags as well as a 109 problem bouldering circuit. The "Bouldering Comp" was based on your progress through the circuit and the winner would be the one who completed the most problems. It was a comp unlike any I've been to and a unique area as well. Of the 109 problems, I'd say 80 were V0 or V1. The race was on. Throughout the day there were periods of speed climbing and others of working on harder problems. Ben and JP completed 60+ problems while Kyle and I slowed down to do some of the harder ones and did about 30 each (Not to say Ben and JP didn't send hard stuff too).
Needless to say, the winner of the comp was Maxim, an uber-strong climber from Boston Rock Gym. He sent all 109. Ben did place and won a pair of shoes.

This past weekend we began our indoor competitions with a trip up to Burlington's Petra Cliffs. As always, it was a fun comp and just about all of those involved with the Shiloh's Edge team (regularly or occasionally) placed well in the comp. It was a long day, 12 hours round trip. But worth it, absolutely.

Monday, the new climbing gym in Niskayuna opened up, J-PeaCity. Yes, JP and his dad built a nice wall in their garage and I lent him my holds until his come in and my new homewall goes up.
We spent a good 3 hours setting new routes on Monday night and because of the rain this weekend, will probably end up in there Saturday as well.

Fall temps are nice, but there is always the chance for a soaking rain as well.