Winter Day at GB

WOW it was COLD. Actually we started out the day less than psyched. Michael, Ben and I hit up the Probe boulder to warm up, but there was no warming done for several hours. Not long after we got there, along came Aaron and Tyler (a new guy from Wisc/VA). After discovering that we weren't getting much done on the V9 Probe, we moved over to the Speed boulder to get some work in on harder stuff ??
Ben made some progress on Something from Nothing V10, stalling on the hard move for him. Michael made the best goes to date on his V13 (what???) project Roses and Blue Jays. I had no work whatsoever for the V8 or V9 up there.
We decided to move on down the line to the larger concentration of boulders so I could give a go at the Bump V8, something I had been working a few days and was hoping to send before ice enveloped the SPAC boulder. After the 10 minutes of walking, the day suddenly got warmer and our spirits much higher. Ben got the repeat on Bump, sending with the prescribed method, as did Michael, using his own beta. And I also got it second go of the day. Next project please...
We stopped up at Snooze to give Aaron the support/ spotting he needed to send it in a day. Good Work! And then moved over to the slopy Twisted Stihl V8. Michael quickly sent do show us the beta and then Ben and I gave it some goes for about 30 minutes. We weren't able to get to the slopy lip yet, but it feels fun and within reach. Possibly the next proj for me?? After I send Boxcar though ;-)

Merry Christmas all.

Dark Horse Series #2

This past Saturday was looking CHIIIIILLLYYYY. So we decided to shuffle out to a the second installment of the MetroRock Dark Horse Series. This weekend was in their flagship Everett location, a beautiful and huge gym.
The problems seemed very reasonable and we started pulling down on some solid V6s. Ben, JP, Aaron, Luke and myself all scored some solid routes. And I believe that we were all happy with out sends for the day. Unfortunately, many of us tried too hard at the beginning and weren't able to finish five solid routes.
Ben got his five in, with a V7, two V6s and two V5s. I, on the otherhand, sent four V6s and could only score a V2 in the final minute of climbing to round out my scorecard.
Again we stayed for finals to watch some of the strongest climbers in the area go at it for cash money. In the girls division, Franny Metcalf cleaned up as usual, sending three of four routes. Our friend Melissa Gotkowski was the only other woman to complete a route and performed well for second place.
The guys division was pretty exciting, as Julian Bautista (he took third at ABS Nationals in 09) flew out from California for the event. Bautista sent #1, #3 and #4. Next was Vasya who sent all four routes but in five tries; he got the second one in two goes. Finally it came down to Rob D'Anastasio who needed to flash all four routes in order to take the prize. With the whole crowd cheering, Rob calmly brushed and inspected every hold of the final route. Hopped on and quickly flashed the route for the win.

The true win of the evening came for the Shiloh's Edge team though, as we took two of the three available raffle prizes. Me, a backpack and JP, a Thermarest. JP is the RAFFLE KING.

It seems that comps are over for a few months, so we're praying for sunny, warm winter Saturdays.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL and to all a hard SEND.

The Snowy Winter Climbing begins

We all knew it was coming sooner or later. Yes the snow has fallen over NY and blanketed many/all of our favorite climbing destinations. Chasing of the sun begins.

On Saturday we read the weather forecast first thing in the morning and decided that with the southerly storm, heading north would be the best idea. We met up with a few friends who showed us the lines on the Caroga Lake boulder. There were a few decent goes and some working of the hard problems before we broke for lunch and headed over to 9 Corners.

JP and I had our sights on Thorazine (V8), just about the most beautiful line at 9. After a few goes we were able to link up to the top move but before we could get the send, the snow began to fall and covered the tricky/slopey top out. As soon as the snow melts on it, it should go. (The final problem in the top video on the right is Ben on Thorazine this past summer)

Ben and Michael worked the unrepeated V11 on the same boulder. Overburdened begins with a V11 traverse into a V8 finish. Michael was able to link through all the V11 moves but was unable to go for the send as again the snow covered the top. Ben came up with some interesting and very powerful beta that may get him through those V11 moves (as he is much shorter than Michael).

All in all, we made a decent day of it, considering the amount of time we were hiding under the overhanging boulder to stay out of the snow.

After the large snowstorm we got on Wednesday, this weekend it is still up in the air whether we go to a comp or venture outdoors and shovel our way to the boulder.

Tis the SENDING season