Every January there happens to be that one day that just warms up to like 50+ degrees and melts all the snow...well, that wasn't the day we climbed...that came two days later. However, Saturday the 23rd was a pretty warm day for January in the Gunks.
The greatness of the day began as we pulled into the parking lot, parking next to two friends already out climbing, we caught up to them quickly. And before leaving our car, we met some other friends (Murph and Mira) and some friends of friends (Sarah and Dan). The crew was ready to roll.
We slid up the icy path to warm up in the Gill Egg area. There are three classic John Gill V4 problems there, two of which I hadn't done yet. The Gill Egg is the pronounced Egg shaped boulder that nearly leans over the Carriage Path. I had never even come close on it but had to give it a go anyway. After one weak attempt, Murph showed me his beta for the jump problem (we are about the same height). Two goes later, I latched the jug ledge nearly statically and finally cracked the egg.
Next down the line is the Gill Crack which involves a big reach up from a solid hand jam. If you don't catch the jug, it is a frightening withdrawl of your hand as you fall. Sarah, who is shorter than I, floated up the problem and revealed the critical foot beta. I learned the lesson and quickly got the send. Murph and Dan put it away as well.
Around the corner is the third V4, Gill Pinch Roof. I had done this a few years ago, but JP had been projecting it for quite a while. This was his day for the send as he has gotten much stronger since his last go on it and walked it pretty easily. Many of us also worked the V7 variation called Ricans and White Boys. Good goes were had, but only Murph was able to hold the slopy pinch and finish the problem. A nice repeat for sure.
Moving on down the Road, JP got frustrated on Black Boulder AGAIN. But was super psyched to work Lynn Hill Traverse V8, a project for another day definitely. Next we passed Kyle at the Buddha and left him with some more pads and some beta. He later sent the ultra-classic V7. Great show.
I had my heart set on The Boxcar Arete, a Gunks testpiece V8. I had one day on it before with some decent work, but I felt the send was within reach today. On the second go of the day, I got through the heinous crimps to the slopy lip. The end was within site, but not within reach as I fell going for the jug, bouncing off the pad and into an icy puddle. Fun, Fun. I took about 5-6 more goes on it with sufficient rests in between, but never reached the lip again. It remains a project for another day.
On the way out we took a few burns on Jackson Pollock V8, but were out of time and energy for this crazy toe hook problem.
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