Great day at Gunks before the big snow

Monday I was able to get out randomly (usually I'm home with Nora on Mondays) with Evan, Kyle and Billy Joel. It was a decently warm day for February, about 35 degrees and we began the day in the pass with Lorax and Jackson Pollock. Usually it is too windy to stop here in the morning, and we never get to try Jackson until the end of the day when we are tired.
Everyone made quick work of the Lorax (new sends for Kyle and Evan) then we worked Jackson. Evan completed in just a few goes, while the rest of us are still stuck controlling that swing.
Next we stopped at Winters Agony where Evan flashed and Billy gave it just one try. Then all the way down to Boxcar for Kyle to work that and Evan to work Bizmark V10. I also gave a few goes at Bizmark. No one sent but it feels like progress can be made so I'll be back when the snow melts.
With just about an hour left in the day, I hopped on a longtime project, Merrakesh Express V6. I enjoyed my visit to the city of Merrakesh in 2007 and since then have always wanted to do this crimpy traverse on the Nameless Boulder. After a few quick tries figuring out the foot beta, I was able to dispense with this cool line.
Finally, with 30 minutes left, Evan was getting frustrated with Enlightened Buddha, so I figured I'd give a go at the Gunks ultra-classic V7, The Buddha. With the guys spraying great beta and encouragement, I was finally able to send this project and complete a very fun day.

AHHHH! Why does it have to dump snow like this every time the climbing gets good?

Edelrid Mantle pad review

Gotta give a shout out to Edelrid for the new Mantle pad. Just one day on my new Mantle and I'm sold. The foam is similar to the stiffness of the Organic pads. The accessories are awesome: carpet emblem for clean shoes, zippers two ways for 4'x4' or 2'x8', closure is bomber with pulling straps spreading force over a large surface and metal buckles. The sit pad that comes with it is great 2'x3' and carpet emblem again.
I was a bit nervous about fitting my backpack in the hinged pad. Would there be enough room with the sit pad as well. YES there is. Foam flexes nicely to carry it all (but I wouldn't leave it packed like that at home or it may kill the foam over time).
The ability to switch between traverse and normal pad seems like it may be gimmicky, but in the first day I had it I used it twice in traverse mode and three times normally.
All said...highly recommend.

Gunks Sending Spree

The last two Saturdays we have made our way down to The Road to work out our projects. Day One saw lots of progress, but no sends whatsoever. Day Two, however, was a much different story.

February can be an amazing month for climbing or a despicable one. Because we are nearing Spring, it is possible to see the beginnings of warmer temps. By this I mean still below freezing but not the bone-chilling teens of January.

On the 6th, it was chilly in the low 20s with a constant breeze that made it feel like the low teens. The guys knew my project was Boxcar Arete, so we headed there first to warm up on the nearby moderates and give me some goes. I dialed in all of the moves to the sloping lip pretty quickly, but just could not manage to send. I even did just the top out moves in isolation, but the next go, didn't have the gas to finish.

From there JP and Kyle went on to work The Following. This usually chilly problem down in a hole was actually the nicest place to be that day, as it was sheltered from the unusual NE wind. Again, Kyle and JP did all of the moves to the problem but just couldn't manage to put the sequence together.

Ben and Aaron made great progress on Venus and Scorpio (V11) and Aaron also had some cool goes at Andrew's Roof, an insane looking V9.

But as I said, on the 6th, no sends.

Exactly one week later, JP, Kyle and I met Michael and Sandra down on the Road and again headed straight to Boxcar. This day was actually pleasant, despite the overcast sky. The wind out of the NW was blocked by the Trapps and after warming up, I never looked for my gloves again.

On my first go at Boxcar, I made it to the lip and about 4 inches from the jug finish hold, but I fell and cracked Kyle in the nose on my way down. (Deepest apologies again, bro). The gang was patient with me. Kyle continued to work the lower sequence and I took long rests between goes. On my third attempt, I finally completed the route, which is a nice V8 for me. It took three good days of work, but I was content to do anything people wanted for the rest of the day.

We then went down the hill to Bismark (V10) and spotted Michael as he got his first send on that gem. The Following and Merrakesh were both wet, so no work could be done on those. As we made our way back, we stopped at The Buddha where Michael completed his V8, 9, 10 day, topping out Illustrious and Enlightened.

For the final stop, we wandered all the way over to the Near Trapps for JP to send his project, The Pearl (V8). After some very quick work, both he and Kyle got the send.

The projects have begun to fall. As the weather warms to comfortable, I'm sure the sending will increase dramatically.