Winter Day at GB

WOW it was COLD. Actually we started out the day less than psyched. Michael, Ben and I hit up the Probe boulder to warm up, but there was no warming done for several hours. Not long after we got there, along came Aaron and Tyler (a new guy from Wisc/VA). After discovering that we weren't getting much done on the V9 Probe, we moved over to the Speed boulder to get some work in on harder stuff ??
Ben made some progress on Something from Nothing V10, stalling on the hard move for him. Michael made the best goes to date on his V13 (what???) project Roses and Blue Jays. I had no work whatsoever for the V8 or V9 up there.
We decided to move on down the line to the larger concentration of boulders so I could give a go at the Bump V8, something I had been working a few days and was hoping to send before ice enveloped the SPAC boulder. After the 10 minutes of walking, the day suddenly got warmer and our spirits much higher. Ben got the repeat on Bump, sending with the prescribed method, as did Michael, using his own beta. And I also got it second go of the day. Next project please...
We stopped up at Snooze to give Aaron the support/ spotting he needed to send it in a day. Good Work! And then moved over to the slopy Twisted Stihl V8. Michael quickly sent do show us the beta and then Ben and I gave it some goes for about 30 minutes. We weren't able to get to the slopy lip yet, but it feels fun and within reach. Possibly the next proj for me?? After I send Boxcar though ;-)

Merry Christmas all.

Dark Horse Series #2

This past Saturday was looking CHIIIIILLLYYYY. So we decided to shuffle out to a the second installment of the MetroRock Dark Horse Series. This weekend was in their flagship Everett location, a beautiful and huge gym.
The problems seemed very reasonable and we started pulling down on some solid V6s. Ben, JP, Aaron, Luke and myself all scored some solid routes. And I believe that we were all happy with out sends for the day. Unfortunately, many of us tried too hard at the beginning and weren't able to finish five solid routes.
Ben got his five in, with a V7, two V6s and two V5s. I, on the otherhand, sent four V6s and could only score a V2 in the final minute of climbing to round out my scorecard.
Again we stayed for finals to watch some of the strongest climbers in the area go at it for cash money. In the girls division, Franny Metcalf cleaned up as usual, sending three of four routes. Our friend Melissa Gotkowski was the only other woman to complete a route and performed well for second place.
The guys division was pretty exciting, as Julian Bautista (he took third at ABS Nationals in 09) flew out from California for the event. Bautista sent #1, #3 and #4. Next was Vasya who sent all four routes but in five tries; he got the second one in two goes. Finally it came down to Rob D'Anastasio who needed to flash all four routes in order to take the prize. With the whole crowd cheering, Rob calmly brushed and inspected every hold of the final route. Hopped on and quickly flashed the route for the win.

The true win of the evening came for the Shiloh's Edge team though, as we took two of the three available raffle prizes. Me, a backpack and JP, a Thermarest. JP is the RAFFLE KING.

It seems that comps are over for a few months, so we're praying for sunny, warm winter Saturdays.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL and to all a hard SEND.

The Snowy Winter Climbing begins

We all knew it was coming sooner or later. Yes the snow has fallen over NY and blanketed many/all of our favorite climbing destinations. Chasing of the sun begins.

On Saturday we read the weather forecast first thing in the morning and decided that with the southerly storm, heading north would be the best idea. We met up with a few friends who showed us the lines on the Caroga Lake boulder. There were a few decent goes and some working of the hard problems before we broke for lunch and headed over to 9 Corners.

JP and I had our sights on Thorazine (V8), just about the most beautiful line at 9. After a few goes we were able to link up to the top move but before we could get the send, the snow began to fall and covered the tricky/slopey top out. As soon as the snow melts on it, it should go. (The final problem in the top video on the right is Ben on Thorazine this past summer)

Ben and Michael worked the unrepeated V11 on the same boulder. Overburdened begins with a V11 traverse into a V8 finish. Michael was able to link through all the V11 moves but was unable to go for the send as again the snow covered the top. Ben came up with some interesting and very powerful beta that may get him through those V11 moves (as he is much shorter than Michael).

All in all, we made a decent day of it, considering the amount of time we were hiding under the overhanging boulder to stay out of the snow.

After the large snowstorm we got on Wednesday, this weekend it is still up in the air whether we go to a comp or venture outdoors and shovel our way to the boulder.

Tis the SENDING season

Great late fall day at GB

Last Saturday we returned to Great Barrington for a beautiful chilly fall day. We began the day at the Probe Boulder for the first time in over a year. The warm-up is a fun V2 that went pretty quickly for all. JP and I then set our eyes on a V5 Kettle Traverse that goes into the warm-up while Ben and Kyle worked on the V9 Probe.
After a handful of tries, I was able to put together the traverse for the send. JP then continued working it and was able to traverse all the way to the final moves but slipped off and couldn't get back to that spot again. Next time for sure.
Kyle and Ben weren't able to connect the first moves but they feel good about future days on it.
Next we walked 10 minutes down to the SPAC boulder. Ben and I worked the V8 Bump, Kyle looked for a repeat on SPAC and JP began prepping for Snooze Button V5. Ben and I are both VERY close on to sending. JP waited patiently for all the pads to be moved up the hill under his project. He then gave it some really good goes but the Kettle Traverse had stolen his finger tips and his best goes at Snooze.
Finally we ventured up the hill some more to check out Two Stroke and Big Hairy White Thing. Both of those were still a bit wet from the rain Thursday night so we put some work in on an unknown but beautiful looking climb. After about a half dozen goes, I was able to pull through the tough opening sequences and cruise the easy top out for my second send of the day. We later found out that this fun line was a V5 called Wasabi.

All in all a great day and we are all very excited to return to these projects again, hopefully before the snow flies. JP put together a video of the day. Check it out at www.weekendbouldering.blogspot.com

We'll take a Thanksgiving break and then go out again on the 5th, either outdoors or to the CT Rockgym comp.

Happy T-Day

Dark Horse Comp. Series

Saturday's rain left us with no guilt at all about traveling to the Mass Coast for an indoor comp at Metro Rock Newburyport. The huge event featured a cash purse that drew some of the strongest climbers living in the Northeast. Some of the pros who showed up included Phil Schall, Ty Landmon and Brian Kim. There were probably close to 200 competitors ranging from 5 yrs old to 45 years old (99% under age 25).

Luke had a good showing, placing 3rd in Advanced. JP and I finished about middle of the pack in Advanced with JP beating me by 5 points. Jess did well also, finishing 2nd in Women's Intermediate. Ben came out but was sick a few days before the comp, so he didn't compete, just encouraged and chatted. Other friends who showed up to compete were Izzy, Michael and Sandra.

Even though it was a 17 hour day, the comp was fun and it was exciting to watch the Pro Finals. They are SO STRONG and left us all aspiring to climb hard as well.

Hopefully one of our many possible climbing destinations will stay dry enough to climb outdoors this Saturday.

Last day at Snowy before it snows?

Veteran's Day was a beautiful day up at Snowy Mtn. Boulders. The crew of Luke, JP, Izzy, Jess, Aaron and Adam rolled up there for some ADK sendage before the snow begins to fall.

The day goes to Luke as on his first visit to Snowy he sent nearly all of the classic problems. His tick list was: (Coit V6, SMAC V8, Insomnia V6, IHOPP V6, Never Been V7).
SMAC got the smackdown that day as Luke, Aaron, JP and I all sent the soft V8. Aaron also sent Never for his first V7.

You just couldn't have asked for a better day. Maybe we'll get another in before winter?

Oh. One last note...A very generous man named Matt from down south GAVE Jess a brand new pair of Solutions in her size. WHAT? Talk about a good day!!!

Beautiful Fall Day at the Gunks

What can I say? The Gunks is just amazing in the spring and fall, but the cool temps of the late fall are the absolute best. On Saturday we headed down there with a crew of 5 (Ben, Aaron, JP, Jess and myself) to dispense with a few long standing projects.
JP texted me in the morning: "Meaning of Life will go today." My simple reply was "Yo"
After a quick warm up at Black Boulder, which Aaron sent for the first time, we trucked it right to Meaning. After just a few burns and sussing out beta a little better, both JP and I put it to bed.
Next was The Following, another project of mine. Ben repeated it quickly and pointed out one key maneuver. I then sent it first go of the day. JP and Aaron gave it some good burns but no sendage.

Next stop was Merrakesh Express, a crimpy, traversing V6. Ben got the quick repeat. Aaron put it down after a bit of work. I worked it a while, got a few moves further than previous days but no send for me.

Moving on down the line, we hit up Boxcar Arete (V8). Ben showed me the beta with a stylish repeat. I made some great progress on it and am really psyched to get back another day when I have fresh skin. That thing gives you bruises on every tip. I've got all the moves, so hopefully it will go soon.

On the return trip down the Road, we stopped at The Buddha. Aaron got Andrews (V4) but none of use had much left for the signature V7.

But wait, one more stop. It's not quite dark yet. Jackson Pollock V8. Many good attempts at this short line. And it should definitely go next time, so long as we hit it up before burning ourselves out on other projects.

Great Gunks day. Can't wait for Winter on the Road.

Gillette V6 attempts

Cool Fall Day at Triple Right

Columbus Day is an incredible day for outdoor climbing. The cool temps are incredible, the leaves are falling, the crowds are low.
Today we hit up Triple Right outside of New Paltz for an unbelievable day. We were all still a bit sore from Saturday's session, but we couldn't pass up this perfect/available day.
We began with warming up around the Neapolitan boulder. Many sent this namesake V3, I was able to stick the V5 dyno to the left and JP did a nice linkup of the two (left to right). We then moved on to Gillette a dyno V6 and Mach 3 the sit start V9. Ben and Michael worked the harder route for a bit while JP, Kyle and I worked the V6.
After many tries, I snagged the blind throw for my second dyno send of the day. If you know anything about my climbing style, dynos are not in that repetroire. I'm a trad climber by trade and I like things static and with both feet on. I was psyched to have stuck two harder dynos in a day.
From there we moved over to Dydactic Tactics. Michael made good progress on Lactic (the lower start) and got to the slopy lip. Ben worked up it quite a ways, but Kyle and I had trouble getting to the midway rest.
Our final jaunt was doing laps on Captain Bring Me Down V5. Some sent the whole thing, others started at various spots to work out moves. Some ran laps eliminating holds and others played on nearby problems. It was a great area to get a final burn in, as the routes are overhanging with decent holds to get a good last pump going.

I can't wait for more fall climbing. Heres to hoping the next few weekends are dry.

Nice day at GB

After a rainy night and some real skepticizm on my part, we headed out to GB Saturday morning. The morning was pretty wet and finding things to work was a bit of a challenge. However, as the day progressed, things dried out nicely and lots of good climbing went down.

We began by working the sit start to our "Shade" problem. Many made great progress, but the send is still elusive. We then went uphill to try Snooze Button, but with the top-out still wet, we just worked out the lower moves for a while. Ben and Michael worked on a V10 by Fatwa and also a very fun looking project to the right of Snooze Button.

As Ben, Michael and Sandra moved over to some harder stuff, JP and I went back to his Bromance V5 to get some video of the sendage. JP quickly resent (video in previous post), but I could not make the big move. JP still has the only ascent we know of.

We then caught up with the others at the Speed Boulder. Ben was working Something From Nothing V11. JP and I did the V4 heel hook problem up the hill and a few variations thereof. We also sent a really cool arete behind that which I flashed and we estimated to be about V2 with some really fun moves.

We finished the day off with some of the best Burritos I've had at Azteca down in town.

Great Day. Good call JP.

Heading to Triple for the Monday holiday. Should be great temps.

JP's Great Barrington V5 - Bromance

JP is still the only one to have sent this problem (as far as we know. We cleaned it a few months ago). This is the flash resend. I worked it after him, but to no avail. I can't keep my foot from instinctively stepping back on the boulder to the side.

Way to go JP. Climbin' Strong.

Competitions have begun

I guess it has been a few weeks since an update but we are still going strong both indoors and out.
Two weeks ago we made the trip out to Wendell State Forest in Mass. for the Western Mass Climbers Festival. The area had a number of climbing crags as well as a 109 problem bouldering circuit. The "Bouldering Comp" was based on your progress through the circuit and the winner would be the one who completed the most problems. It was a comp unlike any I've been to and a unique area as well. Of the 109 problems, I'd say 80 were V0 or V1. The race was on. Throughout the day there were periods of speed climbing and others of working on harder problems. Ben and JP completed 60+ problems while Kyle and I slowed down to do some of the harder ones and did about 30 each (Not to say Ben and JP didn't send hard stuff too).
Needless to say, the winner of the comp was Maxim, an uber-strong climber from Boston Rock Gym. He sent all 109. Ben did place and won a pair of shoes.

This past weekend we began our indoor competitions with a trip up to Burlington's Petra Cliffs. As always, it was a fun comp and just about all of those involved with the Shiloh's Edge team (regularly or occasionally) placed well in the comp. It was a long day, 12 hours round trip. But worth it, absolutely.

Monday, the new climbing gym in Niskayuna opened up, J-PeaCity. Yes, JP and his dad built a nice wall in their garage and I lent him my holds until his come in and my new homewall goes up.
We spent a good 3 hours setting new routes on Monday night and because of the rain this weekend, will probably end up in there Saturday as well.

Fall temps are nice, but there is always the chance for a soaking rain as well.

Southern Adk Rock Climbing Festival

On Saturday we made our way up to the SAdkRF for a little bouldering comp. When I say little, I mean LITTLE. Four competitors came up with me and there were probably no more than 6-8 others from various areas. As soon as we put our shoes on, it started raining. It rained and rained and rained some more.
Luke and I tried to beat the precip first thing in the morning and got on top of a tall boulder via a V1 arete and then the skies openned. We scrambled around up there for 5-10 minutes looking for a safe way down. After that we hide/climbed in an amazing cave for the next few hours. Ben and Luke worked an open project that was a crimpfest on a 45 degree wall. They made great progress, getting about 3/4 of the moves worked out and linked. The next move from their high point will probably be the crux of this V10/11 project. It is a jump to two decent slot holds off of a sidepull, a bad crimp and low/no feet. Really great work by Ben linking up to the high point.
When the rain subsided for about an hour, we walked the circuit and found some 'drier' V0s, V1s and V2s. We then returned to the cave to show some other folks the progress that has been made and finally worked a wet, sloppy V3 but to no avail.
At the end of the day, I ended up with the most points, winning the competition with a V2 high problem. Ben took second place.
Really it was a funny comp day, due to the rain. I can't imagine what would have gone down if it were dry. My previous disdain for Crane Mtn has been lifted though, due to a wet day that inspired me to come back and finish climbs when they are dry.

I'll be back for you Leviathan.

Beautiful Days at GB and PKill

This weekend was absolutely incredible for climbing. On Friday afternoon, Luke, Evan and Pinto and I rolled out to Great Barrington after Greg's funeral. A somber day for sure, but in honor of Greg, we had to climb. It was a quick 3 hour workout, but some great progress was made on the Bump (V8) for both Evan and I. Pinto sent after a number of tries and gave us the foot beta for next time we try it fresh. We then hopped on the Platform V6, Pistol Grip V6/7 (sent by myself and Luke) and Pinto worked Fatwa V9.

On the Monday holiday, we rolled down to New Paltz for a full day at PKill. No one sent anything huge. Ben got the Classic One (V5) and I made tons of progress on two fun V7s Village Idiot (consistantly getting to the final pop for the top.) and Delicate Soul. The weather was perfect for climbing, cloudy and about 65 degrees. We all got pretty burnt out by about 3pm after working really hard on our projects.

Miss ya Greg

The NY climbing community has lost a great friend in the passing of Greg Beaudet last week. It has been a few years since he was living in the area, but his family and friends are still here and he would visit occasionally and, I'm sure, make the trip to the Gunks. If you are a boulderer at the Gunks, I'm guessing you'd recongnize him. In his senior year of high school, we spent quite a few days together down at the Gunks. He taught me how to boulder, and I introduced him to trad climbing.

Greg was ALWAYS a joy to be around. His energy was infectious; he was care-free, and he never had a bad attitude about anyone or anything. When he came to the competitions, everyone was excited. He was a high flyer, an encourager, and always climbed for himself, never to prove that he was better than anyone. His forearms were gigantic, dwarfed only by his heart and smile. His style was dynamic and powerful and although he was only about 5'6", I have NEVER seen him beaten in a dyno comp. I have set problems for every E-City competition and if we were concluding with a dyno showdown, we set knowing that only Greg could get the final one.

After he graduated high school, he went off to the Navy and became one of the best rescue swimmers they had. I'm sure he showed no fear jumping out of helicopters into the water. He had probably fallen from greater heights onto just 4 inches of foam and carpet. After entering the Navy, I didn't hear from him much. He was stationed in San Diego and Florida and spent time in the Persian Gulf too. We'd talk one or twice a year. His brother and father I would still see around, but not much was discussed besides "How's Greg doing? When's he coming home next?"

He had been a part of the Shiloh's Edge program; joining us on Saturday mornings for the indoor climbing league and on our trips out to Joshua Tree for spring break as well. I really wish I could keep up with all the kids who have ever been on a Shiloh's Edge trip, but unfortunately, life just doesn't afford that. I hadn't seen him in quite a while, but now that he's gone, I'm really kinda missin' him.

Tons of work at McKenzie

The beatiful line of Flux Capacitor

My computer has been down for a few weeks...still out for repair, but tons of sending has gone down the first half of August - despite the HUMIDNESS.

McKenzie has been our destination of choice as we have been trying to get Ben as many goes on Flux Capacitor before he heads off to school. We went up on the 7th with Jess and Izzy for a great day. Tons of moderates went down, but no one got their projs that day. Ben did send Committed a V6 on the IF boulder. And Kyle and I both sent Providence, a committing V5.

On the 8th, JP and Kyle and I did some sport climbing at Shanty, a fun little cliff between North Creek and Wells. We did Shantytown 5.9, and a short .10a and .11a closeby. Really an enjoyable cliff. Have to return sometime.

On the 9th, Ben and I went back to McKenzie and he finally sent Flux Capacitor, a very proud V8. His first attempt of the day, he got to the jugs but couldn't top out. Then about an hour later some French Canadians were wondering how the problem went, so Ben jumped on to give them some beta. After 4-5 goes for them, he sent his summerlong proj. NICE WORK BEN.

On the 10th, we visited Crane Mtn Boulderwoods for the first time. And ummm, probably the last. It was super buggy, rock was wet and really chossy in spots. There are a few decent lines there I'm sure, but it's gonna take some convincing to get me back there. Maybe if it has been a super dry week in late October or something, I'll consider it. Ben and Kyle did a V6 called Vitamin I, but I didn't find anything inspiring enough to put my digits to the 4-days-on test.

On the 15th, Ben and JP and I met Kyle up at McKenzie for yet another day. Again, nothing huge went down. Ben worked Super Karate Chop for a while and we did a bunch of moderates and repeats.

Back rested and ready to send

After taking nearly two full weeks off to rest my tendons, we got back to ADK bouldering and kicked it off with some great sends.

Ben and I went out to 9 Corners last Monday and found the Froggy boulder. Froggy is a V4 with a really high start, so high that we weren't sure we were looking at the right boulder. After stepping on and giving it a few half hearted attempts, we decided that this was what we were looking for and put in the full effort necessary for the send. We then worked on the two V9s on that boulder, but couldn't make much progress without the correct beta.

On Saturday a decent sized crew rolled up to Snowy Mtn boulders, one of my favorite areas in NY. With it's sandstone like rock and pocketed overhangs, it is just an ideal and unique cluster for the Northeast. The weather on Friday was not conducive to climbing (it was an all day soaker), however, I remembered climbing at Snowy a few weeks earlier after an evening of rain and all was dry, so we gave it a go.

PERFECTO!!!

As we found out, Snowy is the ideal place for climbing when all else is still wet. With just 10-12 hours of dry weather, everything is doable. And the send train started rolling early.
Sam threw down the most classic V6 there after just a few goes; Kyle repeated it. I sent a really fun V5 Pumpkins Arete next to it.
We then moved on to IHOPP, one of my favorite climbs in the ADKs. I had worked it a ton last visit here and was able to send it first try this visit. So Fun. Sam also sent IHOPP and a repeat send for Kyle.
Then we moved up to the Cave boulder and played on the giant huecoed roof, sending a V2 and a V3 and an easier variation to the V6 The Sickness.
Next stop was the Never Been to Hueco boulder...Kyle and Sam both sent the V7 and I am much closer than before. Kyle then hit the lip on the V8 and feels like it is within his reach for the next visit.
And finally, we stopped at the Poisonwood boulder and sent a V5 called The Uninspired. Sam also worked the V6 Liar, Liar.

Many thanks to Buzzy for his beta spray, encouragement and spotting. It is always great to climb with someone who knows the problems and wants to see you get up them.

ADKs all summer

Last weekend, JP, Ben and I hit up 9 Corners on Friday for another go at 007. After some work, Ben got the send for a pretty stout V7. I am still taking it easy on my tendons so my new send of the day was Can You See My Eyeball (V3) and JP also got a new send for himself - Mannequin's Leg (V3).

On Saturday it was just Ben and me and we had McKenzie Pond Boulders to ourselves all day. It was still a bit wet when we arrived so we warmed up on some easier problems for a bit and then headed over to Flux Capacitor (Ben's V8 project). We did some drying of holds on that and Star Chores (my V8 proj) and then Ben took a crack at a send-go. AHHH!!! so close. He got to the jugs at the lip but couldn't find the critical crimp to finish the problem. Subsequent goes didn't go nearly as well. And the project stands for yet another day. We tried a V9 for a while, and then I worked Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few tries before sending it. I've got one more V5 to send at McKenzie.

Monday I took off and will take this weekend completely off as well. We have a ropes course group on Saturday and my fingures can use the rest.

Climbing resumes soon. Keep abreast of all the sends right here.

Awesome ADK Weekend - 3 days on.

This weekend a crew of us rolled up to the Dacks for a bouldering tour of the greatest areas the Adirondacks has to offer.

We began at 9 Corners Lake on Friday afternoon. There were some great sends and good efforts all around. Ben sent his V8 project (Thorazine) on the second go and then did it again for the camera. Aaron (new to the Shiloh's Edge crew) sent Pop or Drop, a committing V4 after the rest of us dropped off a bunch. Izzy (also new to the crew) sent Meat and Potatoes after working it a number of times. Good sends guys. There was also a lot of work done on 007 (V7).

Saturday we headed up to McKenzie Pond. Izzy made good progress on Brock Lee Soares but just couldn't hold the crimp long enough to grab the first jug. Great effort on it though - watch the video. JP has had his eyes on Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few weeks and finally got back up to try again. Second go and it was over. Good send JP. I jumped on Thrust Fault sporting my new shoes and sent it first try of the day (I had tried a few times on previous occasions). Aaron sent Dickins (V4) pretty quickly and Izzy sent another V1. Ben and I both made little progress on our V8 projects. (Flux for Ben and Star Chores for me.) We decided to head out and save our skin for Sunday at Snowy.

Snowy was a send fest for many. Jump (V6?) went down by just about everyone but with stacked pads. Kyle was the only one to get it (also only one to try it) with one folded pad. This began the send train for him. He finished off Coit, IHOPP, and the V6 lip traverse on the Pancake boulder for 4 V6s in a day. Ben sent SMAC (V8) with not too much effort (maybe a half dozen goes). Izzy sent a V2 and a long V1 and made great progress on a V6 Coit. Aaron sent Pumpkin Arete (V5) in just a few tries. And I have the sequence down on IHOPP but keep greasing off every send go. I'll get it next time. Its a really fun problem that doesn't hurt the hands at all.

Taking Monday evening off. More to send next weekend.

Monday Eve GB session - Finally dry

JP nearly catching the Pistol Grip.
Ben with a proud send of a V9, Fatwa

After about half a dozen wet climbing days, we finally got a good evening of completely dry conditions, perfect for sending. And sending is what went down.

We began with some classic easier stuff. Some warm ups, the classic V3 andV4 and then a lesser known V2 and a first for us. It was a very fun problem just to the left of Scary Mantle-o. Kyle also sent a committing crimpy problem over by the warm ups that is of unknown rating. A good send, as the rest of us fell off a few times and never sent.

After warming up and getting some good videos of the send train, we went up for Ben's project - Fatwa V9. He worked it a few times to get used to the first dynamic move and then about 15 minutes in, he caught the edge, held the swing and sent his first V9. CONGRATS BEN. Good work.

JP and Kyle worked Pistol Grip a bit, but to no avail and then they worked a very committing Snooze Button V5, also to no avail, but good progress was made. Ben then went up to try to finish off his other V9 proj, Filter. He felt good on it but couldn't make the link-up. It'll go next time...

We are very excited for future DRY days to come. And hopefully the mosquitoes will subside as the summer progresses. THEY WERE BAD last night. I actually had to use bug spray for the first time this year.

Day 3 - evening visit to Neverland Ranch

Now that our "home" climbing gym has closed down, our Monday night sessions have moved outdoors. Last night was our first excursion and of course we went back to GB.
We met up with our friends Murph and Mira as we parked and brought them right to Neverland Ranch to warm up. Everything felt a lot easier now that it was dry and dirt-free. JP even sent another route, "White Glove" V3 all the way at the right end of the main boulder. Murph tried the "Thriller" project and agreed that the first move is VERY hard and will need some projecting.

At 7pm we packed up and moved back down the hill to work on our projects. JP and Kyle went to "Green Goddess" V7 and Ben went to "Fatwa" V9. I went up to spot Ben and found a fun looking V6/7 called "Pistol Grip" next to "Fatwa" that I decided to give a few goes on. Ben was making slow progress on his proj, so he decided to give a shot at Pistol Grip. After two or three goes, he got it and cleared dozens of spider webs out of the top out chimney. I was grateful. It took me another few goes but I got the send on that one as well. Ben went back to work on Fatwa.

Down the hill, we heard JP send Green Goddess and Murph send Shade (our V5 that we established last year). Murph then came up to help Ben with beta on Fadowah and he quickly began to make great progress, getting it in two pieces. Our time was running short and with little rest between goes, Ben was not able to get the send but is very confident that next visit he will send.

We got a text as we drove home that Mira sent Shade as well and loved it. Murph also worked Buckteeth, the sit start to Shade but couldn't unlock it either.

All in all, really a great session for the 2-hours we had out there. We are excited to continue rolling to either there or 9 Corners on Mondays throughout the summer.

Day 2 at GB

JP and I ventured out Saturday for a second day in a row. We were very excited to find drier conditions and decided to try to get some climbing in rather than more development of Neverland Ranch.
We began with a route that Ben and I had developed last year but I had never completed, Shade V5. JP and I began work on it with a porcupine looking on from about 3 yards away. It is a powerful three move route. JP sent first and after numerous tries, I got the send as well. Next we began working a sit-start project to it called Buckteeth. It is about 10x more powerful and will probably go at V8-9.
Next we went up to Green Goddess, which I sent this spring but has been on JP's ticklist for a while. He made really good progress on it before a little drizzle came and dampened the line and our spirits.
Just as we were packing up to go clean up at "the Ranch", the rain stopped and we decided to try another new project that we scoped out a week earlier. It is an 8' sloping arete on the trail between the "Warm up boulder" and the "Spac boulder". After a little more cleaning and drying, I gave it a few goes and sent. We dubbed it "Closer" and call it a V4, the straight up dyno to the lip will be called "Farther" but we didn't have the power to do it at the end of the day.

Day 1 at Neverland Ranch, GB

Call us obsessed if you'd like. Three out of the last four days we have made the trip out to Great Barrington. With all the rain we've had lately, our plan for Friday was to clean and develop a new climbing area that we had discovered the weekend before. As we expected, walking in in the morning was very wet. The rocks were dripping and there was a small shower on its way.

Kyle, JP and I headed right for what we would call "Neverland Ranch" with all the necessary tools for cleaning. My first mission was chopping a fallen tree off the top of one of the gem routes. Even though the outside of the trunk was rotten and spongy, it took a little longer then I had expected. As I chopped, I watched Kyle and JP "carpet roll" the top of the main boulder, clearing a 3'x12' section in a few minutes work. After finishing off the tree, I followed their example and "carpeted" off the top out of another route that I had my eye on, revealing a huge jug and a fun finishing move to the problem.

With 6-7 potential problems cleared, now came the task of cleaning off the dirt, mud and moisture enough to get the send.

The first to go was "Break of Dawn", the right leaning crack running up the middle of the main boulder. JP got the First Ascent (FA) and we dubbed it a V1. Next was a traverse that Kyle scoped, beginning at "Break of Dawn" and going all the way to the right end of the boulder. We dubbed it a V2 and called it "Moonwalk". The third line was an easy straight up in the middle of the boulder, "Billie Jean" V0. Next we went up to the routes I had cleaned. A 45 degree wall and a taller arete. The 45 degree wall was dubbed a V3 and we call it "Bad" due to the flakey nature of the wall. There is a huge jug on the lip, but rolling up the top out requires a very high foot and a powerful mantle move. The last route of the day was "Smooth Criminal" an arete climb that begins on a beautiful Jug, moves through two small crimp sidepulls and then up jug ledges to the top.

As the skies opened up with the typical summer afternoon rain, we scampered out of the woods and called it a fun day. Definitely making the most of a wet day out. (Pictures taken Monday night)

Two Wet Weekends

The last two weekends have been incredibly rainy. We managed to get out on both Sunday the 14th and Friday the 19th, but there was not a lot of good climbing to be had.
Sunday we went to Peter's Kill with a large group of about 10 climbers and the only dry boulder was a decent one with 2 V7s and a V4. All problems were classics but I had sent the V4 last year and made some decent progress but never finished the V7s.
Kyle, Sam and another guy named Josh all sent Tiger Style, but no one completed Delicate Soul. The V4 was a quick repeat for just about everyone.

On Friday we went to Great Barrington and again everything was wet. We spent a good deal of time trying to dry a few routes but they just were never dry enough to send. We decided to explore for potential new routes. We were successful. EXTREMELY successful. There are many great new lines to be cleaned and we are excited to go back this Friday to begin work on them.

...If only the rain would kindly stick to the beginning of the week, so that things will dry out for Friday and/or Saturday sends....

Triple Right is AMAZING

This weekend Shiloh's Edge/YFC had our annual walk-a-thon on Saturday, so instead I rolled out to a new area called Triple Right on Sunday with a few guys that I hadn't seen in a very long time. One, Sam, went off to college in Colorado last fall and another, Evan, took about 18 months off from climbing.
A full van load made the trip to New Paltz though, including Luke, part of the 'usual gang' and a few from the AIR gym that I hadn't really met yet.

The rock quality at this area is very good; part of the same escarpment which makes up the fabled "GUNKS". The area is a few miles north and back in the woods just a bit. There are many established lines but no guidebook as of yet.
None of our crew had been there more than once or twice, so we were a bit limited on finding routes. However, they knew of enough to get a great workout in and a feel for some of the more quality problems.
I was able to send 3 V5's (all second attempt), 2 V4's (one of which I cleaned and established for the FA) and a very fun V2.
I can't wait to return again with someone who is more familiar with all the gems around Triple Right.

A few McKenzie Videos

Ben took a big fall because of the wet topout with a good catch by Kyle. He sent next go.


JP is very close on this V5 but one move seems to be a bit too reachy for him. Guess he'll have to figure out his own way to do it or wait to grow a little more.



I now realize that I have to shoot videos with the camera horizontally, not vertically. Oh, well. Here it is anyway.

Can't get enough of McKenzie

For a second weekend in a row, we made the 2+ hour drive up to McKenzie Pond Boulders to work at some of our projects. Unfortunately as soon as we parked the car, it began to sprinkle. The rain fell for about 90 minutes, leaving us searching for dry rock or things to work on as soon as they dried up.
Finally around 1pm we were able to begin climbing. A few new V5's went down for folks. Kyle got Slot Machine, I sent Sweet Pea. Ben and Michael both sent a V8 variation to Slot Machine ( I am close). Ben made good progress on Flux Capacitor and I made good progress on the V8 that interests me, Star Chores, getting it in two pieces.
So despite the rain, our efforts just made us all that much more excited to return here soon. We've got many projects still to complete.

2 great Saturdays, 2 great ADK areas

Wow! Two new areas to climb for me. The Adirondacks are just full of great bouldering.

My first visit to Snowy Mtn Boulders on the 9th was incredible. This area is unlike any other in the Northeast that I know of. Hueco pockets of all sizes have been carved out of the numerous boulders below Snowy just north of Speculator, NY. These pockets along with all of the other boulder features make for an incredible area to continue working at (as soon as the black flies give permission in a month or so). Our day there was decent with overcast skies, a little wind and virtually no black flies yet. Some good sends went down. Everyone got at least one V6, a few got V7s and one V8 went down. Can't wait to go back later in the summer.

Today we made a bit of a longer drive up to McKenzie Pond Boulders. This was my first visit there and I was instantly extatick. A lot of classic problems got sent today. JP got the two he had his eyes on for the day (IF and Thrust Fault). Ben got his V7 Magnum and made good progress on a V8 Flux Capacitor. Luke sent a few V5s. Jess is SO CLOSE on Brock Lee Soares. I sent many of the classic easier problems that I wanted for the day (BLSoares, IF, Slot Machine, Great Roof, Time will Tell, Slobadon).

There will definitely be many more trips up north this summer to these areas.

New Video posted

JP just put together an awesome video of some of our sends down South last month. You gotta check it out. It is on the top of my video bar.

Tomorrow (May 9) we'll be venturing up to Snowy Mtn. Boulders in the Adks. Hope the black flies aren't too bad yet :-)

Good sends at 9 Corners

Last Saturday was a beautiful spring day at 9 Corners in the Adirondacks. JP, Kyle, Zack (Kyle's son) and I had a great afternoon of climbing. We all sent The Origin (a tough V4), took big falls off of Heart Attack Man and made quick work of a V6 on the Saccarine Boulder. Kyle and I also sent Long Live Legos (V5) and another V5 at Saccarine. I worked Thorazine (V8) and it is close for me.
As soon as the black flies let up in JULY, we'll go back to finish off more projects.

Personal trip to Virgin Gorda

Last week, my wife and daughter and I did a little personal vacation back to Virgin Gorda. We went last year in June and learned enough about the place to want to do another trip this year and to do it a little better than last time.
We stayed at the best possible place for beach bouldering (Guavaberry Spring Bay) and had four full days to play.
I bouldered each morning from about 8-11am before we went back to our 'hut' for lunch and a rest during the heat of the day. I climbed two days at Spring Bay, one at Devil's Bay and one at Little Trunk Bay. I was able to repeat many of the problems that I hit up last year and also did a few new ones (everything at Little Trunk). My toughest send was a V8 called Termite Highway at Little Trunk Bay. It is a problem that comes out through a roof and I worked it a little last year as well. This year it rained for a few minutes on our last day so most problems were wet, but I knew Termite would be dry, so I went and worked it for about 30 minutes before sending.
Still have many projects to do there, much of what I have left undone I would want to do with a spotter. There are so many great highball problems there, but with a two year old, my wife is a bit too preoccupied to spot me.
Can't wait to go back in the future.

Download a Little Rock City bouldering guide

Here is an older guide for the Stone Fort Triple Threat Comp.
Some of the projects are now sent and others even downgraded. But this should get you going if you have never been to the Stone Fort before.
Remember to check out www.seclimbers.org for info on how to register for the day there. There are a few steps to take, but it isn't too much of a hassle.

Find the link on the sidebar in "tough to find bouldering topos"

Finally a sunny day

Waking up this morning, you could just tell it was going to be beautiful. I'm writing as we cook pancakes and the sun is just beaming down on us. We are heading back to Rocktown for a third day and our last of the trip.
Yesterday we did a second day at Little Rock City on the golf course. It was overcast and nearly about to rain the whole day but somehow we got sun burned?
We began the day with JP sending his V6 project that he was working on Tuesday. His first try on Wednesday was successful and we then moved. I then tried a balancey V6 and sent after a few goes. Then Luke sent his V6 project from Tuesday, while Ben split his finger tip on the first try on it and was done for the day.
We are really looking forward to going hard on our last day and sending some projects remaining at Rocktown.

Climbing on a Golf Course???

Although it was overcast nearly all day, the rain did hold off and we got a great day of climbing in at Little Rock City. The climbing is located in the woods along the 9th hole of Montlake Golf Course. It is a very interesting set up, as you park in the course parking lot, check in at the clubhouse, then jump into the woods for some of the most beautiful climbing I have ever seen.
Everyone had a great day of sends. Many V4s, V5s, V6s, and a few V7s were polished off.
We are already checked in for another great day there today with beautiful weather forecasted.

Rain Rain, Go Away!

We've had two straight nights of steady rain. And with not much wind this morning, it feels like it will take a while to dry things out for climbing. We'll have a nice big breakfast and take our time getting out of camp. But head to Little Rock City to at least scout things out and climb whatever is dry.
Yesterday was a great rest day. We hit up the gear store (of course) and then the Aquarium, which was a real treat. For lunch we HAD to do Sonic. There are commercials for Sonic all the time around us, but no restaurant within hundreds of miles. The slushes were the hit of the trip (and half price after 2pm :)

Two incredible days in Rocktown

After a super long drive (17 hours over two days) we spend the last two days bouldering on super rough slopers at Rocktown. There have been too many great sends to list out, but we have rolled through many moderates (V3-7). Tomorrow looks like a definite rainy day, so we'll take the intended rest day and head to the Tennessee Aquarium.
More info to come, but here are a few pictures for now.

Chattanooga here we come

Our team is set and psyched. A small group of solid climbers will be rolling do to the South for six days of hard sending. We'll be hitting up Rocktown, Little Rock City and T-Wall (maybe Horse Pens 40 too) to throw down as many problems as our skin will hold up for.
Our team is made up of Luke, Ben, JP, Jess, Michelle and myself.
We hope to update our blog often throughout the trip, so keep checking back. We drive down Thursday and Friday and will climb Saturday - Thursday, returning home by Saturday the 18th.
Wish us tough skin and strong tendons.

Good Sends at GB

Last weekend we returned to Great Barrington to slaughter some of the projects we had gathered over the fall and winter. The send train hit the tracks early, as JP polished off Scary Mantelo, Crystal Quartz Problem and SPAC. Kyle also sent CQP and SPAC for the first time.

Next it was Ben and My turn to throw down Green Goddess, a V7 that we sussed out on that icy day a few months ago. We knew it would go. For Ben it was first try of the day, but it took me 6-7 tries.

For the middle part of the day, not much went down. Ben made it to the last move on a new V9 that he started work on. Kyle and I also made it to the last move on a new V6. We were nowhere near hitting Fen Fen, a V7 project from the icy day.

We finished off the day sending some easier but very fun stuff up above the Filter wall. We had no idea what they were but we figured they went at V2, V3, V3 and V4. The V4 had incredible moves down low but the top out was super challenging.

This weekend looks rainy, but we may hit P-Kill if it holds out.

Back in Action

I haven't published in a while because I have given my fingers a two-week rest while attending to other weekend activities (Namely a middle school conference of 600 kids). But the boys haven't missed a Saturday, rolling out to Triple Right on the 14th and the Carriage Road on the 21st. They have continued to throw down some V4s, 5s and 6s. Very impressive stuff.
I'm excited to get back on rock this week, as I'm teaching a Sport Leading class Mon, Wed and Sat. And I hope to get out and climb something hard on Friday as well.
The boys are very excited about the 200 new holds that the gym acquired last week and were pumped to show me all the new routes they were setting.
Spring is lookin' up.

Spring is almost here

We've had two great Saturdays in a row climbing down at the Gunks. Yesterday was especially superb. With 60+ degree temps and a huge crew rolling down, we got the send train going early. Everyone got to polish off a few of the classic moderates, including Sam who had his first outdoor bouldering day ever.
G and Kyle both sent their first V5s. Mark his first V4 and Ben had the send of the day a V6 Marrakesh Express.

Very soon all the snow will be gone and we'll diversify a little more in where we visit each weekend.

Until Spring...

Ah School vacation week

 

Today is the last day of winter break, so we got one more day of climbing outdoors. It was a send-fest at the Near Trapps today as JP sent his first V6 (Out of the Ashes), and Ben and I both sent 2 V6s (Ashes, Cream Cheese) and a V8 (The Pearl).
The weather was chilly but not terrible. Really couldn't ask for a more successful day.